12/25/2022 0 Comments Side seam 1piece moccasin pattern![]() Enlarge or reduce the pattern’s size on a copy machine until the length of the sole equals the measured length of your foot. ![]() Measure the pattern, the inner sole pattern should be as long as the distance you measured from the wall to the end of your toe. Stand on a piece of paper with your heels against a wall, and make a mark at the end of the longest toe. The above tools are available from leather stores such as and Assembly:ġ. Silver gel pen – erases off of most leathers with water and liquid soap on cloth or with a “magic sponge” It can be the sanded surface of a log, a thick plastic cutting board, or a pounding board purchased from a leather store. Pounding board – to be placed under the leather when you use a drive punch. Maul or rubber mallet for striking the drive punch, see photo below White glue might work, put a weight on the pieces, until the bond is dry.įelt and peltex or other materials for making a preliminary “mock-up” shoe Tools: You can also use rubber cement, spray adhesive – here’s one without flurocarbons – or double-sided tape. Stitching awl thread or artificial sinew also works, as will many more types of thread that you may already have.Ĭontact cement – I recommend Aqualim 315 non-toxic cement from: or Ecoweld contact cement from to hold the bottom sole in place before you stitch it on, and for adhering lining. Thread – waxed braided nylon cord from leather stores is easy to work with and, being inorganic, won’t deteriorate. You can tie it over the instep or at the heel – or insert an elastic band or shock-cord so they are easy to slip on and off. Thong – You will need a thin strip of leather or other material to thread through openings along the topline. Motorcycle inner tubes, which are thin but wide enough for adult shoes, and are available at no charge from most shops, thin natural rubber (available in my store), or an additional piece of leather can be used as soling. Soling – A bottom sole is not necessary, but of course having an additional layer of protection under foot will result in a longer-lasting shoe. Leather or felt – These can be made from thrift store goods, 3-4 ounce/square foot purchased leather, 2 mm commercial wool felt, felted wool coats or blankets, or hand-made felt. They might need to be lined with the same or similar leather. And, they will be locally made, with your good energy. This shoe is totally ecological if you make it from leather items from thrift stores, and if you use non-toxic cements. Please see my video for making custom side-seam moccasins at: Compare it to “minimalist” shoes that are advertised as being great to have on cruises when you want to change out of your painful stilettos – and they cost $175.00 – these could be made for free! When you add a street-sturdy sole to it, you have a “moccashoe” that’s wearable as you go out the door. ![]() These would make great “earthing” shoes if you add a leather sole – or none.Įven though this is a moccasin design, it’s not just for wearing to shuffle around the house. You’re done! A lace or a leather thong around the topline can gather the moccashoe close to your foot. Stitch a bottom sole on, stitch the body of the moccasin to the flap, and stitch the heel. ![]() This might be the easiest way ever to make a great-looking shoe! This “moccashoe” is composed of one piece, with a flap that folds over the foot. ![]()
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